GE Refrigerator Repair Guide
(GE Refrigerator Not Running)
This GE refrigerator repair guide is for GE’s electronic refrigerators made after 2002. Including
top-freezers, bottom-freezers, and side-by-side models.
In this GE refrigerator repair guide, I will walk you through the steps in
repairing 2002 or newer GE side-by-side refrigerators that are not running. If
you need any other refrigerator help, please refer to my refrigerator repair
guide. In 2002, GE redesigned their side-by-side refrigerators. With this
redesign came challenges for repairmen because it was unlike any refrigerator we
have ever seen. GE designed this refrigerator to be more energy efficient and
one of the ways they done this is by using adaptive defrost. This means that the
refrigerator will only defrost as needed. They also changed the fan motors to
run on DC current so that they can change the speed that the motors run as
needed. They also added an electric damper that regulates the airflow between
the fresh food section and the freezer. Instead of using a cold control, they
started using thermistor. All of these changes were new but after working on
these refrigerators for years, I have become an expert at them and I am willing
to help you with your GE refrigerator repair. As stated above, this page is for
2002 or newer GE side-by-side refrigerators that are not running. If you have a
problem any other type of refrigerator, refer to my refrigerator repair guide.
If you have this refrigerator but this is not your problem here are some links
to other GE refrigerator repair articles I have written.
GE
Refrigerator Not Cooling
GE Refrigerator Not
Dispensing
GE
Refrigerator Fan Motor Diagnostics
How
To Test A GE Refrigerator Thermistor
Main Board
This section of this GE refrigerator repair
guide will discuss the main board. If you have a GE refrigerator that is not
running the most common problem is the main board.
Often when this board goes
bad you will hear a constant clicking noise. Pull the refrigerator out remove
and the cover that is about two feet off the floor. Once the cover is off, you
should be able to see the main board. Listen to see if the clicking noise is
coming from the main board, if so replace it. This is a simple GE refrigerator
repair, just remember to unplug the refrigerator before replacing the control
and read the instructions that come with the new control.
If you don’t
hear the clicking noise, the main board may still be your problem. If both fans
are running and the compressor is not, the main board is bad and most of the
time there will be a burnt spot behind one of the black relays on the bottom of
the main board. Even if the burnt spot is not there, the main board is your
problem.
Main board replacement tip-Step #2 on the
installation instructions says to eliminate thermistor jumper wire, read that
step carefully. It is only necessary on bottom freezers and encoder models.
There is a list of serial number prefixes. What this means is that if your
refrigerator is an encoder model and the first three letters of the serial
number begin with one of the listed prefixes, then you have to cut out the
jumper as described. An encoder model is a model with turn-dial controls rather
than push button or digital.
If you don’t hear the clicking
noise and the fans are not running check the temperature control as described
below. If you need to replace your main board I recommend this website AppliancePartsPros.com.
Start Relay
The start relay
will also cause this problem, and like the main board, you will often hear a
clicking noise when the start relay is bad but there will be a long pause
between clicks. If the clicking is not coming from the main board, the start
relay is most likely the problem. First, unplug the refrigerator then remove the
bottom cover off the back of the refrigerator. On the side of the compressor
there will be a cover, remove it. Behind the cover there will be a start relay
and an overload. Remove the start relay and shake it. If it rattles, it is bad
and needs replacing.
Temperature Control
If
your GE refrigerator is not running, the temperature controls can be your
problem. To check this, unplug the refrigerator then remove the cover from the
controls located at the top front of the fresh food section. There should be a
plug that connects both of the controls, unplug it. Then plug the refrigerator
back in and if the refrigerator runs after you disconnect the controls, the
controls are bad and need replacing. With the controls disconnected, the main
board will operate the refrigerator at normal setting. This will give you time
to get the part to fix it. If however the refrigerator will not work after
disconnecting the controls, your problem is elsewhere. Temperature controls can
be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com.
Thermistors
This section of
this GE refrigerator repair guide will discuss thermistors. Thermistors don’t go
bad very often but if they do they can cause your GE refrigerator not to cool
and possibly not run at all. Most of these GE refrigerators have three
thermistors: one in the fresh food section and two in the freezer. Some have
four or more thermistors depending on the model. If any of the thermistors are
bad the performance of the refrigerator will be greatly reduced or it may not
run at all. Although they don’t go bad often the first models had thermistors
that were consistently out of range. The part number for the correct thermistor is WR55X10025. This part can be purchased at AppliancePartsPros.com.
To test a thermistor
Remove the thermistor and place it in a cup with ice and a small amount of water for at least five minutes. This should bring the thermistor to 32 degrees. Using your ohmmeter, check resistance across the thermistor with it still in the ice water. It should read around 16.6 K ohms or 16,600 ohms. If you don’t own an ohmmeter or are unsure how to properly use it, replace the thermistors if you suspect they are bad.
See this page for more on How To Test A GE Refrigerator Thermistor
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