GE Washer wont agitate or spin

by Mike
(Clayton, NC)

Have a GE Profile washer that is 3 years old model #wpre6100g0wt. The pump works but it will not agitate or spin. I have continuity across the fuse. Performed a lid switch test I found on line and it tested good. No flashing light on the motor in fact no light at all. Opened and closed the lid to reset but no good. Put in field service mode found no error codes but in this mode it would not agitate or spin. 8.95 VDC across pins 3 and 5 as well as 4 and 5 at the motor. Have 120 VAC across WR wire and RB wire at motor as well as across WR wire and OX wire at the motor (pins 3,5,6 on first plug at motor). Blew and sucked on water level switch to loosen carbon at contacts to no avail (tip from 50 year service tech. veteran). Please tell me I have overlooked something simple and inexpensive.

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Answer

Hi Mike,

Replacement parts in General Electric WPRE6100G0WT Washer

You have done every step necessary to diagnose a bad motor.

I have read your post several times carefully (thanks for the very detailed info by the way) and I believe you have a bad motor. You have voltage to the motor the light should be blinking. That itself is a very good indication that the motor is bad because the only things that will stop the light is the fuse or the motor and you know the fuse is good because you have voltage from WR wire to RB as well as the continuity test you preformed. Then you took it a step further and tested voltage at the motor in the service model. I think you can safely say that the motor is bad. If I were in you situation that is what my diagnoses would be.

Thank you,
Shawn/administrator

Comments for GE Washer wont agitate or spin

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confused
by: steve

I have the exact same washing machine as this man and have the exact same problems!I did all the exact same tests as he did and found no problems,the only difference is that my green light is still blinking and not indicating any errors,the first time i quickly checked the lid switch,i didnt have my meter on me so i bypassed the switch by tying the two wires together and nothing happend with the motor!please,what am i missing here??

Motor Problem
by: Shawn/admin

If the light is blinking then we know the fuse is not blown also you say you by-passed the lid switch so we know the lid switch isn’t the problem. Assuming you placed the washer in the service mode and tested for voltage like Mike said he did and you got voltage at the motor then the motor is bad. If you have not tested for voltage then you must do so in order to rule out the control.

GE Profile washer
by: Steve

I tested all the voltages at the motor in the service spin mode,the green light blinks on and off at a 1 seond steady rate,i thought that meant the motor wasnt burnt up,i was confosed with that part,i even tried to see if i could smell one of the windings to see if it was burnt,could not smell anything,so it stands that the motor is bad, right?

RE
by: Shawn/admin

The light blinking doesn’t mean for 100% that the motor is ok. All that means is the circuit for the light is ok (meaning the fuse isn’t blown) and that the motor hasn’t flagged an error code. However if it is getting the correct voltage feed back from the control but sill will not spin then the motor is bad.

Tell me which pins on the motor you are testing and what voltage you are getting and what mode the washer is in when testing.

GE Profile washer
by: Anonymous

The washer was infield service mode spin test,knob 9.The pins i tested were the following,c2 pin 5 to pin 3=120vac,c2 pin 6 to pin 3=120vac with lid closed,c7 pin 1 to pin 2=165vdc,c4 pin 5 to pin 1=9vdc,c4 pin 5 to pin 2=9vdc,c4 pin5 to pin 3=9vdc,c4 pin 5 to pin 4=9vdc,i also did a ohm reading on the shifter coil that came out to 92 ohms which i know was suppose to be 98 ohms,i figured that was close enough. I also checked the water flow sensor tube to see if it was clogged,it wasnt.I wanted to thank you very much for helping me out with all your great knowledge,very nice of you,its actually my sisters washer.

Motor
by: Shawn/admin

There is only one more thing that we have to eliminate that I should have said earlier (I didn?t because it is very uncommon). You need to make sure the motor or the shaft and tube isn?t locked. If it were you should be getting an error code so I don?t think that is your problem but you just need to make sure.

Other than that you are getting the correct voltages to the motor so it should be spinning and since it is not then it is bad.

I am going to post this link to my repair page about this washer just for anyone else that looks at the thread GE HydroWave Washer Repair

GE Washer not spinning or agitating
by: Jack

My washer is also not spinning or agitating-drains ok. Checked LED and I'm getting 6 flashes(rotor locked). I can manually move motor and tub, so I don't know what rotor locked means. I reset by removing power, open and closing lid and now LED flashed steady. Tried another wash cycle but still no agitaion. I plan on buying a motor and also a lid switch just in case. How do I eliminate the switch issue if that's a possibility?

RE
by: Shawn/admin

If the motor is flagging the locked rotor (locked motor) and the motor isn’t locked the problem is going to be in the motor. There is a test on the link I left above that shows how to test the lid switch but I don’t think that will be your issue.

GE Profile WPRE6100G0WT
by: Anonymous

I have the same problem; won't spin nor agitate but it didn't happen all at once. Intermittently it would not spin but everything else worked fine; filling tub, agitating, draining, so contacted service dept. of store where this machine was purchased in 2007. Service man came out and first determined not the lid switch, but saw it spin with a little "push" so he by-passed the lid switch so top can be open. He said transmission was going out.s

We have washed clothes for a week now without a problem and it was back to spinning until today; I got one load of blankets washed and spinned and then on 2nd load it would not agitate nor spin; just fill with water, drain and time itself out. I am reading on many sites that when agitating ceases it seems to be the motor.

My question is, do I have a bad motor and transmission or was motor culprit all along?

RE
by: Shawn/admin

Your model doesn’t have a transmission but I assume he replaced the shaft and tube assembly (mode sifter).

I will not say that the mode sifter wasn’t bad when the tech checked it but it is very uncommon for this to cause this type of problem. The motor stores error codes and some error codes cause the motor to shut down completely and some limit the motor to 50 RPMs. There is also a fuse that could be blown. The first thing you need to do is check the error codes and the fuse and if they are ok then yes the most common thing is the motor. This page will help GE HydroWave Washer Repair

GE HydroWave
by: Anonymous

No the service repair guy did NOT replace the mode sifter. See when I called the service department and told them that this washer was not always spinning all the water out of the clothes, and sometimes fails to spin, the first thing they told me would be checked would be the lid switch. He came out with a new lid switch in case we needed one. But he opened up the lid, took the top off and tested the lid switch which turned out to be okay. But he did say that the "transmission" was going bad because it didn't seem to go into that high gear when it should. He did not replace it due to high $$ in labor. So we told him as long as it is running we will continue to use it until we decide whether to buy new or not. In the meantime he said he would leave the lid switch in the by-pass connection so that we could monitor the spinning with the lid up.

The next day I washed two loads of clothes and the spinning was just fine. Then I washed two more loads this past Saturday which equals 4 loads or four washes. THEN, I attempted to wash a small load of 4 pair of slacks and this is when it stopped or would not agitate. SO, after reading all of your links, it sounds to me like I have had my granted four washes with the lid switch not connected. So now I can't even get the error codes because I can't clear them. I did have the machine unplugged overnight, and this morning I put water in to see if it would agitate, but then realized I can't do the reset of error codes without the lid switch in opening and closing the lid a certain number of times after plugging it in.

So, could you email to me instructions on how to connect the lid switch? The service guy never took off the front panel and checked the error codes. I didn't even know the machine had such a thing until I read your reply.

Thanks for your help.

RE
by: Shawn

Hi,

Sorry for the delay I have been on vacation.

I am not sure what he done to bypass the lid switch but you are right you cannot clear the error codes and the lid switch being bypassed causes an error code. So now you are stuck until you get the lid switch back working.

Your best bet is to make the guy come back and undo the bypass. I wouldn’t pay him to come back because he messed up period. I don’t like to talk down about what other techs do because I have made my share of mistakes but you never bypass a lid switch, not only is this a safety issue in this case it caused your machine to shut down.

If you cannot get him to come back the only way I know of to bypass the lid switch is to cut the wires and wire them together. You will have to slice the switch back into the circuit but again I strongly recommend making him come back and reconnecting the switch himself.

ge washer not spinning
by: kahr

i have the same problem and changed out motor but still will not spin ,changed lid switch and timer all ready any more ideas

same problem.
by: Anonymous

I am having the same issue i replaced the mode shifter because the inner tub was moving with agitation. It worked perfect for 2 days then stopped agitating and spinning,i opened the front and found the new seal leaked. So i figured it shorted the motor. i changed the motor and fuse bypass that came with the new motor but same problem even though i am getting the 1 blink on/off for normal standby. I checked everything all wires test good with continuity and no shorts. Also all the correct voltages to the motor, lid switch works perfect, water level switch tested good. I am at a loss, have you seen this problem. If you have any ideas please let me know. Thanks

GE Profile WPRE6100G0WT
by: Anonymous

Our washer is back in business and has been for quite some time since my last post. The dealer refunded our service call fee, and suggested we call GE direct, that they have seen with other customers we may benefit more. So I called GE; a service guy in a GE truck came out, replaced the motor, said that GE has improved that particular motor since the machine came out, and get this, the motor, when you buy it from a GE repairman comes with a 5 year warranty as with any parts that come out of a GE truck. The dealer could only give a 90 day warranty with the same motor! The total bill was about $200.00. Needless to say we came out smelling like a rose!

GE Profile motor getting power but no LED
by: buying new motor?

My GE Profile Washer WPRE6100G2WT will not agitate or spin. My father tested that the motor was getting power to the coils but was not starting. He said if its getting power, then all other systems should be a "go", so it's a bad motor. The motor isn't seized up or smell burnt up. The Shaft and tub flywheel move freely.
My only concern is that the LED light is not blinking. Is there something else that could be causing the motor not to start, even though it is getting power? I'm reading a lot of comments about the fuse and/or shifter.

fuse or motor
by: Shawn/admin

This will be the motor or the fuse. Check the fuse and if the fuse is ok replace the motor. This page shows how to test the fuse.

HydroWave Washer Repair

6 flashes
by: janet

stuck rotor is there any way to un stick this

frontloading washing machine
by: Anonymous

I noticed during spin cycle of my frontloading washing machine some flashing lights are coming from near motor ,I can see it night time only,what is that?

Similar problem with a twist
by: Anonymous

My GE washing machine will no longer agitate or spin consistently, but after playing with it or letting it rest I can occasionally get it to spin once or twice, then it goes out again for a day or so. The motor used to get a 7 blink error code so I bypassed the lid switch and now the normal 1 sec. single blink is consistent. The twist is that long after the load of clothes is done, it will click a couple times every hour or so. Is this a timer issue? Any help is appreciated.

WPRE6100G0WT spin cycle at LOW RPM
by: Kenny

my washer will run the spin cycle at the full RPM.
I by passed the lid switch to make sure that wasn't the problem.

the funny thing is i don't see any lights coming from the motor area. But i know the motor is running because during the wash cycle, it agitates without any issues. Also no problems draining.

do i have a bad motor?

WPRE6100G0WT spin cycle at LOW RPM
by: Kenny

I meant to say it will NOT run the spin cycle at the full RPM speed.

No go in Service Mode
by: Luke

Put washer in service mode. Will not spin or agitate. Checked voltages at the circuit board, DCV at Mode Shift plug was 165. Resistance at mode shift plub as 66, supposed to be 98, does this indicate bad mode shifter? Code blinking is 4 which indicates this.

The only thing that is hanging me up is if I can not get the tub to spin in Service mode, is it actually the mode shifter or a bad motor.

Hi Luke,

The sifter being 66 ohms wouldn't indicate to me that it was bad. Yea its supposed to be 98 but as resistance goes on something like that its within reason.

When the sifter is bad it will still spin and agitate but when it agitates the spin basket will turn rather then just the agitator.

I think your motor is bad but it could be a loose wire or the main board.

No blinking light on motor
by: Anonymous

So I had the same issue no blinking LED light and no agitator and spin cycle. Turned out my fuse was blown, I cut it out and bypassed it to test as I didn't have a volt meter. After bypassing I had 4 blinks which turned out to be a mode switch. :-( it stinks but at least I know what it is it does explain why I have alot of rubber dust in the bottom of my washer. The mode switch has a thermal fuse which burnt causing the coil to stop working which kept the clutch stuck. The motor couldn't turn freely which blew the fuse turning off the LED light.

GE Profile WPRE6150W2KT First Wouldn't Spin Now Won't Agitate Or Spin
by: Anonymous

GE Profile WPRE6150K2WT initially intermittently would stop Spinning. I did a reset and it did Spin. Then it would agitate but not spin. Plan was to replace sifter shaft. Now it won't agitate or spin. I tested lid switch continuity and it is OK. I tested the sifter continuity and it is around 65. I tested the fuse and it is OK. Not sure what to test next. Is it the motor? Not sure how to test. It has been very noise in the agitator area so I'm figuring the shaft is bad. My current plan is to replace the shaft first. If this doesn't work then I'll replace the motor. I'm not sure how to get it in Service Mode to do motor testing.

Answer,

I would say from what you have said that the motor is bad. It could also be in main control but the motor is more likely. With that said the noise could be caused by the sifter so you may end up have to replace that too.

Thank you,
Shawn/admin

How to put GE WPRE6150K2WT Into Service Mode
by: Anonymous

Can you tell me how to put my GE Profile Hydrowave Washer WPRE6150K2WT into Service Mode? I would like to test the motor. I've checked the thermal fuse and lid switch and both are OK. There seems to be a problem with the shifter which I plan on replacing. I saw a GE document that indicated which errors would prevent the motor from running (1, 2, and 7)....I'm not getting any error codes now (green light is blinking normally) but I'm wondering if an error has occurred and the whole system is tangled up. The belt seems fine. I'll replace the shifter and tub bearing which have been grinding and noisy.....hopefully these will make the washer work. If not I'll retest and replace the motor? If things are tangled will I be able to run a Service Mode test anyway?

Answer,

The service mode is almost useless but if you want to use the service mode and then check voltage at the motor you can. The instructions for putting your model in the service mode are on the mini manual located in the control compartment of your washer.

Once you get it in service mode spin, check for voltage at the motor. You should get 12 volts DC between C4 pin 5 to pin 3 and 12 volts between pin 5 and pin 4. If you get this voltage and the motor doesn't run replace the motor. If you don't get the voltage replace the control. Both test are done on the C4 plug which the mini manual will indicate.

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